Understanding GSM, Oz, and how it affects feel, fit, and function.
🔹 Why Fabric Weight Matters
When customers describe a T-shirt as “too thin” or a hoodie as “super thick,” they’re really talking about fabric weight. Whether you're building a basics line or premium streetwear, choosing the right GSM (grams per square meter) is key to getting the feel and silhouette you want.
At HEM APPAREL, we help brands match the look, fit, and cost of a product by choosing the right fabric weight from day one.
🔸 What is GSM?
GSM (grams per square meter) is the most common unit for fabric weight, especially in knit fabrics like T-shirts and hoodies.
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Under 160gsm: Lightweight, soft, breathable. Common for summer or innerwear.
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160–200gsm: Medium weight, suitable for casual tees. Most commercial brands stay in this range.
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200–240gsm: Mid-heavy, durable and premium feel. Good for blankwear or structured streetwear.
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260–320gsm and above: Heavyweight. Often used in oversized tees, hoodies, and high-end basics.
🔸 How Fabric Weight Affects Products
| Product Type | Recommended GSM | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| T-Shirt (basic) | 160–180gsm | Soft, everyday wear |
| T-Shirt (premium/boxy) | 220–260gsm | Structured, holds shape |
| Hoodie (light) | 260–300gsm | Year-round or layering |
| Hoodie (heavy) | 320–400gsm | Winter/streetwear style |
| Jogger | 280–320gsm | Durability + warmth |
| Polo | 180–220gsm | Needs structure but breathability |
🔸 Oz vs GSM – What’s the Difference?
Some suppliers use oz/yd² (ounces per square yard), especially in U.S. markets.
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5.3 oz ≈ 180gsm
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6.5 oz ≈ 220gsm
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7.5 oz ≈ 255–260gsm
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9 oz ≈ 310–320gsm
👉 For knitwear (like tees/hoodies), GSM is the preferred unit in Vietnam.
🔹 Real Examples from HEM APPAREL
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HEM Blank Tee (Heavyweight): 260gsm compact cotton – boxy fit, thick 1” collar rib
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Merch T-shirt (Mass Production): 180gsm CVC – cost-effective, soft, reliable
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Oversized Hoodie (Custom): 380gsm fleece – brushed inside, premium feel
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Uniform Polo Shirt: 200gsm pique cotton or CVC – breathable yet holds shape
🧵 What to Consider When Choosing GSM?
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Target market: Streetwear vs. corporate merch?
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Fit and silhouette: Boxy, slim, oversized?
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Climate & season: Selling in summer or fall?
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Budget: Heavier = higher cost
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MOQ: Some weights require custom knitting
At HEM APPAREL, we consult on all of this before sampling — so you don’t waste time or budget on the wrong fabric.
✅ Need help choosing the right fabric weight for your line?
We’ll guide you through fabric swatches, samples, and production planning — tailored to your product and brand vision.
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