Yarn count is one of the most important factors that determines how thick, soft, and breathable a fabric feels — but it’s often misunderstood.
At HEM APPAREL, we use yarn count to help brands balance softness, opacity, and weight, especially for tees, polos, hoodies, and underwear.
🧵 What Is Yarn Count?
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Yarn count refers to the thickness or fineness of yarn
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Measured by how much length it takes to make 1 pound of yarn
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The higher the count → the finer (thinner) the yarn
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The lower the count → the thicker (heavier) the yarn
✅ Yarn count directly affects fabric weight (GSM), breathability, and drape
📏 Common Yarn Count Systems
| System | Used For | Example Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Ne (English) | Cotton fabrics | 30s = 1 lb of yarn is 30×840 yards |
| Nm (Metric) | Wool, synthetics | 40 Nm = finer than 20 Nm |
| Tex/Denier | Synthetic yarns | Higher number = thicker yarn |
At HEM APPAREL: We typically work with 20s – 40s Ne for cotton jersey and fleece.
🪡 How Yarn Count Affects Fabric Feel
| Yarn Count (Ne) | Handfeel | Fabric Weight | Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16s – 20s | Coarse, thick | Heavy (≥ 220gsm) | Streetwear tees, heavy hoodies |
| 24s – 30s | Balanced softness | Medium (~180–200gsm) | Daily T-shirts, polos |
| 32s – 40s | Fine, lightweight | Light (~140–160gsm) | Premium basics, summerwear |
🎯 Why It Matters in Product Development
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Too thin? Fabric may feel cheap or see-through
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Too thick? Can feel heavy, stiff, or hot
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Choosing the right yarn count ensures comfort, look, and target pricing
Example:
For oversized streetwear tees → 20s cotton, 220gsm
For premium dailywear → 30s cotton, 180gsm
For babywear or tanks → 32–40s cotton/modal blends
🧠 HEM APPAREL’s Tip:
Don't just chase GSM — yarn count affects how that GSM feels.
Two fabrics with the same GSM can feel totally different depending on the yarn used.
We help you choose the ideal yarn count + knit + GSM combo for your brand vibe. MOQ from 300 pcs/style.
